Fine Lines and Wrinkles

As we age our skin biology goes through natural changes that lead to wrinkles, fine lines, sagging, dryness, and dark spots. It occurs due to decreased collagen and elastin production, slowdown in skin cell turnover and a reduction of Hyaluronic acid levels in the skin.

The decrease in collagen and elastin results in skin sagging and contributes to wrinkles. The slowdown in skin cell turnover means that dead skin cells build up on the surface of the skin instead of being replaced regularly. The build-up of dead skin cells shows as a dry, rough texture and dull skin tone. A reduction in hyaluronic acid levels results in skin dryness. Skin dryness emphasizes wrinkles, fine lines and sagging.
In addition to the natural changes in our skin, we also accumulate damage to our skin from sun exposure, skin damage, smoking, poor diet, lack of sleep, pollution, and genetics. The end effect of both natural and external factors is the same which means there are many opportunities to minimise them through skincare.

We have 3 main methods for improving mature skin:

• Preventing skin damage due to external factors
• Targeting the deficiencies and changes resulting from natural ageing that lead to the appearance of mature skin
• Targeting the dryness and physical manifestation of mature skin

Sun Damage – Vitamin C and Sunscreen

Sun damage is actually one of the biggest factors when it comes to skin ageing. UV rays cause freckles/liver spots, skin mottling and moles by triggering melanin production. UV rays also damage the fibres in your skin called elastin leading to sagging and wrinkles.

UV rays generate free radicals when they hit your skin. The free radicals then react with your skin cells causing damage. Sunscreen can help prevent the UV rays from reaching your skin and antioxidants like Vitamin C can help minimize the damage caused by free radicals. Antioxidants work by reacting with the free radicals instead of letting it react with your skin cells.

We recommend that a Vitamin C serum and sunscreen are used daily to minimize the sun damage your skin experiences.

Exfoliators – AHAs/BHAs

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells, clearing pores, and encouraging collagen production. Exfoliation can be done through physically scrubbing the skin, though this can be harsh on your skin. Chemical exfoliants help dissolve the bonds between dead cells so they can be easily removed.

The two most common forms of exfoliators are Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids (AHAs and BHAs).

• Glycolic and lactic acids are both types of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), with lactic acid being gentle and more suitable for dry, sensitive skin.
• Salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), reduces oil production, making it effective for oily and acne-prone skin.

If you have dry or sensitive skin, we recommend finding an AHA exfoliator. If you have oily skin, then we recommend a BHA exfoliator.

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in your skin that comes in several different forms. Hyaluronic acid attracts and retains moisture in your skin reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles that is caused by skin dryness. It supports skin volume and elasticity by supporting collagen and elastin fibres. We can supplement our declining natural hyaluronic acid levels by using skincare products containing Hyaluronic Acids. Most products include Hyaluronic acid already, but it is possible to buy Hyaluronic acid serums.

Skin Turnover

Maintaining your skin health and a healthy lifestyle through exercise, a balanced diet and drinking plenty of water can help ensure that it is turning over at the highest natural rate.

It is possible to increase skin cell turn-over through the use of chemical compounds such as Retinol (a type of Retinoid). Retinol can be harmful if not used correctly which is why it requires a prescription in New Zealand. Only use Retinol if you have been prescribed to by your doctor.

Peptides

Peptides are short amino acid chains that are used in cell to cell communication in the body and importantly in the skin. There are many scientifically studied peptides that have a wide range of mechanisms of action and effects. Peptides can help boost collagen and elastin production which improves skin elasticity, and reduce wrinkles. They can also help to reduce inflammation, improve skin hydration, and speed up healing after tissue damage. Some peptides can even inhibit the contraction of muscles.

Common Peptides

Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-11, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3/5, Palmitoyle Tetrapeptide-7

Niacinamide

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) strengthens the skin’s barrier, controls oil, diminishes the look of dark spots, brightens skin tone, and minimizes pore appearance. It also increases collagen production which helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, promoting firmer and more elastic skin. It even calms redness and irritation and protects against damage from the environment with its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

Niacinamide is proven to be effective with concentrations ranging from 2% to 5%.

Moisturisers

Skin dryness causes wrinkles and fine lines to look harder and stand out more. Dry skin is also less elastic and has a rougher texture. Using a moisturiser to restore moisture to your skin can be a simple way to get a significant improvement in the signs of ageing.

Conclusion

There is a lot we can do as we age to slow down or minimize the signs of ageing. If you are looking at putting together a routine aim to include a mild cleanser, an exfoliator, a serum or ampoule, a moisturizer and a sunscreen. Aim to include serums/ampoules and moisturizers that contain Vitamin C, Niacinamide and Hyaluronic Acids. Consider adding a serum containing peptides if needing an extra boost.